Surfing is Medicine
From the moment my toes hit the sand and the refreshing Pacific waters brush over my feet, a sense of waking up to the moment takes over. The day’s happenings are left on the Pleasure Point stairs as I descend into the magic of the salty air and crashing waves. Paddling out past the kelp, ducking underneath the transparent blue waters or past the sea otters munching on crab, the anticipation starts building for the first wave of the day. Gazing out to the horizon, my eyes lock onto the wave I will try to catch. Arms start paddling, core tightens, water starts sucking out and the crest of the wave starts building. One last look left to make sure no one else is on the wave. A feeling of calm and bliss wash over me as I ride the pulsing water. There is nothing quite like it. Many say, surfing is addictive. It most certainly is.
Not only is surfing medicinal but every session has something to teach you. The value of patience, absorbing the ups and downs of life, and learning to engage your body and mind in the moment. Humility falls at the top. I learned to surf as an adult. A friend once said, “surfing is the most unfair sport to learn as an adult.” It is so dynamic, conditions are always changing and there is never the same wave. This is also what makes me continue the journey into surfing. Not only does surfing require vigor, stamina, balance and agility but a high level of focus and observation. Ready to wax your board and hop into the sea?
Look out for my next post about “Taking the Plunge into Surfing.”